Kelly Eden is a lifestyle writer and essayist living between the rain forest and the ocean on the wild West Coast of New Zealand. She loves to travel with her family and whether she's exploring near home or internationally, every trip is an adventure.
Kelly Eden is a lifestyle writer and essayist living between the rain forest and the ocean on the wild West Coast of New Zealand. She loves to travel with her family and whether she's exploring near home or internationally, every trip is an adventure.
Hi, I'm Kelly!Kelly Eden is a lifestyle writer and essayist living between the rain forest and the ocean on the wild West Coast of New Zealand. She loves to travel with her family and whether she's exploring near home or internationally, every trip is an adventure.
Hi, I'm Kelly!Kelly Eden is a lifestyle writer and essayist living between the rain forest and the ocean on the wild West Coast of New Zealand. She loves to travel with her family and whether she's exploring near home or internationally, every trip is an adventure.
New Zealand’s South Island, filled with farmland, rivers, and mountains, and far fewer people than the North, is the more laid-back Kiwi destination. And whether laid-back for you means a leisurely train trip or kayaking with wildlife, it’s “all good,” as the locals say.
The South Island is an anything-goes kind of place. Better still, fans of dramatic “Middle-earth” scenery will find it’s chock full of Lord of the Rings movie locations. Here are some of the best things to do while you’re there.
In just five hours on the TranzAlpine, you can travel from the east to the west coast of the South Island. Start with an eggs Benedict breakfast (or a “Big Breakfast” with all kinds of Kiwi favorites) at a café in Christchurch’s garden city, before hopping aboard. The train takes you through 139 miles (224 kilometers) of stunning landscapes in “The Great Divide,” with views of New Zealand native forest, braided rivers, waterfalls, and snowy mountain peaks.
Midway you’ll visit cheeky kea (mountain parrots) in the alpine ranges, then finish up in the rain forests of the West Coast. Wrap up the day at a local restaurant, with a famous whitebait pattie or delicious roast lamb to help you get into the relaxed “coaster” mood.
Insider tip: Don’t feed the kea or leave anything unattended—they’re curious and definitely not shy!
Just down the coast from Greymouth, you’ll find twin towns with two of the most glorious glaciers in New Zealand. Take a heli-hike on Fox or Franz Josef glaciers and explore the crevices, ice shelves, and magnificent arches formed in the giant ice floes. It’s easier and less scary than it sounds (you don’t need to be an alpine hiker), with experienced guides leading you over the stunning frozen landscape. Or do a snow landing if you’d rather just play.
Insider tip: Wear sunglasses and sunscreen even on a cloudy day—it’s cold, but you can still get sunburned and the weather changes quickly.
If you’d like a panoramic view of the South Island’s snowy peaks, Milford Sound is the place to do it. (Rudyard Kipling, author of The Jungle Book, even called it “the eighth wonder of the world.”) Take a boat cruise past The Remarkables mountain range, and snap a pic (or 10) of the rain forest and waterfalls. Keep a lookout, too, for wildlife living in the Milford Sound. You might encounter fur seals, penguins, or dolphins on your trip.
New Zealanders love their outdoor activities, with kayaking right up there as a favorite. And why wouldn’t it be, with pristine lakes such as the ones in the Milford Sound? Get into the South Island spirit, and kayak anytime of year. (Winter is often quieter and even more peaceful than the popular summer season. Plus, it’s fine if you bundle up.) There’s nothing like kayaking on a calm lake surrounded by nature.
Insider tip: If you’re new to kayaking or inexperienced, a short trip to Harrison Cove is best.
Akaroa is a tiny seaside town where locals go to rest and relax. With its French colonial influence, there’s a different flavor to life in Akaroa than in other parts of New Zealand (including regional fare in restaurants such as Ma Maison). And if you take a boat trip in Akaroa Harbour, you find some of the cutest wildlife you can get close to—it’s one of the only places to see Hector’s dolphins, the world’s smallest and rarest.
Insider tip: Don’t pass up a lazy stroll around the Giant’s Garden while you’re in town, especially in fine weather.
Mackenzie Country, in the central South Island, is where you’ll find New Zealand’s second largest lake—Lake Tekapo—and Mt. Aoraki (Mt. Cook), New Zealand’s tallest mountain. And if that’s not reason enough to visit, you’re also in for a treat at nightfall, as the Aoraki Mackenzie area is an International Dark Sky Reserve. With no light pollution, it’s a chance to view the stars in all their glory. There aren’t many places in the world left for stargazing like this.
Insider tip: In July and August, you may see the incredible Southern Lights (Aurora Australis) in this region and lower south, and Dunedin is another top stargazing spot on the South Island.
Filmmakers love shooting their movies on the South Island, with its vast, untouched natural spaces. One of the most famous trilogies filmed in New Zealand is the Lord of the Rings. If you loved the movies (or the books), dress up and bring Middle-earth to life with a LOTR tour of Lothlorien and Mount Earnslaw (seen in the opening sequence of The Two Towers). Or visit Arrow River in Arrowtown—or the Ford of Bruinen, as we LOTR fans like to call it.
