Marché Vernaison is the heart of Saint-Ouen. Prepare to get lost amid vintage posters, old coffee grinders, sets of stately silverware, and fashions from another era. It’s also where you’ll find what is arguably Saint-Ouen’s most notable restaurant, Chez Louisette. A legend since 1967, the guinguette (a small restaurant with music and dancing) reveals a taste of old Paris with singers performing Edith Piaf classics in a charmingly kitsch setting. Pro tip: Pick up a map of Marché Vernaison to help guide you along the way.
Across the street from Marché Vernaison, you’ll find Marché Dauphine, one of the largest of the Saint-Ouen markets. Among the 180 merchants set along two floors, with what looks like a space shuttle in the middle, take note of the second-hand book sellers offering rare editions, and the appropriately dressed vintage vendors selling ‘30s- and ‘40s-style clothing. Here, too, find furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Marché Paul Bert Serpette
Continue down Rue des Rosiers to Marché Paul Bert Serpette, two markets set behind Philippe Starck’s trendy Ma Cocotte restaurant. Marché Paul Bert is the most picturesque, with outdoor ivy-lined stalls featuring mid-century modern art and furniture, vintage French linens, table settings, and any number of antique treasures. Covered market Serpette boasts furniture from every era and some of the most curated collections of luxury handbags including brands Hermès and Louis Vuitton. Serpette is also home to one of the world’s most notable vintage Chanel jewelry collections, both on display and for sale.